guide to wearing raw denim
While many styles come and go in menswear, few articles of clothing remain as timeless as a pair of jeans. What began as practical workwear in the late 1800s has become a closet staple synonymous with American fashion. Legacy brands have long dominated the denim market, but we’ve taken up the mantle with handsome, thoughtfully made jeans that look and feel as good as — if not better than — the classics. If your closet lacks quality denim jeans, let us help guide you here or at your local shop. A good pair of jeans is an essential component of one’s wardrobe; they’re versatile, functional, and — most importantly — they always look good.
Within popular fashion, denim fit and style subcategories have come and gone - the ultra-skinny jeans had their time in the sun, and we’ll quickly brush over the ultra-wide jean phase of the late ‘90s. One iteration that has never faded is raw denim.
Menswear enthusiasts have been evangelizing raw denim for decades. Many of the best American clothing makers, both classic and contemporary, have produced exceptional examples of raw denim jeans. But what exactly is raw denim, and what makes this traditional production method so unique?
What is Raw Denim?
In the most basic terms, raw (or rigid) denim refers to a pair of jeans that has been dyed (almost always indigo) but is unwashed and untreated. Most manufacturers pre-wash their denim, ensuring you know the exact look and feel to expect when you buy a pair of jeans. With washed denim, your jeans will mostly stay the same color and fit the same way for years to come.
However, raw denim jeans will arrive a bit stiff and rigid as they haven’t gone through a washing process. They’ll also sport a darker, rich indigo hue since the producer hasn’t treated the denim after it’s been cut and sewn.
Raw denim jeans aren’t inherently better than your favorite pair of light-wash jeans, but they do represent denim in its purest form. And, perhaps most importantly, each pair of raw denim jeans will become uniquely yours, with fades developing as you wear them over time.
Within popular fashion, denim fit and style subcategories have come and gone - the ultra-skinny jeans had their time in the sun, and we’ll quickly brush over the ultra-wide jean phase of the late ‘90s. One iteration that has never faded is raw denim.
Menswear enthusiasts have been evangelizing raw denim for decades. Many of the best American clothing makers, both classic and contemporary, have produced exceptional examples of raw denim jeans. But what exactly is raw denim, and what makes this traditional production method so unique?
Are Raw Denim and Selvedge Denim the Same?
As a quick aside, we feel it’s worth calling attention to another term often used in proximity to raw denim: selvedge denim. Raw denim refers to the wash and treatment (or lack thereof) of your jeans. Selvedge, which developed from the term “self-edge,” denim refers to the style of narrow, tightly woven bands on both edges of the denim fabric once it is woven. A selvedge end prevents the edge of the denim from unraveling and gives it a cleaner appearance.
Selvedge jeans are constructed from shuttle looms, a traditionally correct way of producing denim jeans, resulting in a richer character and a more robust weave that won’t tear easily. If you roll up the cuff on a pair of selvedge jeans, you’ll notice a narrow, carefully woven seam on the inner outseam of your pant legs. In the past, the color of the ticker woven over this edge would have been tied to the exact mill that produced the jeans. Many modern brands choose to pick a specific color as more of a stylistic choice, but we use a more traditional red ticker on our selvedge denim as a nod to our favorite vintage models.
This production process is a precise and labor-intensive method that often demonstrates a level of care and quality control not often found in mass-market jeans. However, many have found ways to replicate this look without the craftsmanship it implies. We’ve worked with esteemed manufacturers, like Kurabo in Japan, to ensure the highest quality expected from selvedge denim.
While many pairs of selvedge denim jeans may, in fact, be raw denim, the terms are not interchangeable.
How to Care for Raw Denim Jeans
Because raw denim hasn’t been pre-treated or washed, it’s essential to exercise care when wearing and washing your own pair. Jeans were made as workwear, so you should be comfortable letting them get a little beat up. That’s what gives them character. Dirt or small spots can be dabbed with a wet towel or cloth. But you’ll want to look out for more prominent stains and spills and make sure to spot clean stains from oil, mud, and other tough-to-get-out blemishes.
Ultimately, the frequency with which you wash your raw denim jeans is a matter of personal preference (and hygiene, of course). Some purists suggest never washing a pair of raw denim jeans. There is also a semi-viral theory that you should “Ocean Wash” your raw denim by wearing it in salt water and then rubbing it with sand to get the most profound range of color and quickest fades. From our standpoint, this has been largely debunked, and we wouldn’t recommend going down this route.
The more you wash your raw denim, the more faded it will become. If you’re aiming for rich, high-contrast denim, then it’s as simple as washing your jeans less frequently — ideally only after a substantial number of wears has led them to become noticeably soiled or otherwise unsanitary. But if you enjoy softer hues and a more consistent color palette, you can go ahead and wash your jeans as regularly as you’d like.
Denim has some natural microbial resistance thanks to the indigo dye, so jeans can last quite a while without a wash, but over time, they will certainly need to be cleaned. Food stains, spills, and even your own sweat and oils will mean that you should keep an eye on your denim and wash them with some regularity if you wear them often.
In most cases, your raw denim jeans should be perfectly fine if you delicately machine-wash them inside out with cold water. Washing them inside out will ensure the indigo doesn’t run too much. However, you can also hand-wash them with a mild bleach-free cleaner in lukewarm water. Agitate them a few times, then rinse the cleaning solution in cool water. Once again, wash them inside out so the color doesn’t bleed or run. After washing, make sure to leave them to air dry.
When wearing raw denim jeans, you can be extra cautious to maintain the natural look and feel, but any wear will eventually lead to fades. It’s simply part of the process.
How to Wear Raw Denim
Now that you know how to care for your raw denim jeans, you need to know how they should fit and feel when you wear them.
When buying raw denim, you should first understand your fit preferences. Denim will naturally shrink after washing, but it will also stretch with wear. If you have the opportunity, try on a pair in-store to see how it feels off the rack, and then keep in mind how it might shift and mold as you wear them. If a pair of raw denim jeans fits well and feels good but runs a little long, you can always opt for a cuff — which never goes out of style — or take them to your local tailor to be hemmed. We recommend going for a chain stitch hem if possible, which leads to a nice roping effect on the cuff over time that will fade and more deeply illustrate the natural highs and lows of the indigo dye.
At first, raw denim may feel slightly stiff, scratchy, and rigid. Like fine leather, your raw denim will break in over time, often within a few wears or less. In so many words, our guidance on how to wear raw denim is as simple as this: Just wear it. The more you wear raw denim jeans, the more they will mold to your movements. This formability is precisely why raw denim has risen in popularity - each pair is uniquely yours.
Over time, you’ll notice that your raw denim jeans will have creases that tell the story of how you’ve moved around in your jeans. You might notice a line forming around the pockets where you keep your phone, wallet, or notebook. After several wears and a few washes, raw denim will begin to fade and soften naturally. This sartorial patina helps communicate not only a sense of personal style but a rugged timelessness as well.
Raw denim jeans look best in a simple yet classic outfit. Pair them with an all-American look like a heavyweight cotton black tee and leather boots. It’s a timeless and effortless look. Or, consider dressing them up with a sharp pair of loafers with a vintage-inspired oxford shirt. You should treat raw denim like an experiment. Consider what you like about raw denim and how you might incorporate it into your wardrobe, and give it a shot.
If you’re ready to enter the world of raw denim, we’ve taken care of the first steps of the process for you. Our selvedge denim is a not-quite-raw one-wash treatment that accounts for shrinkage while maintaining the deep blue hue of raw denim, allowing you to buy your true waist size without any confusion about how it will fit. Our commitment to lasting quality means you’ll find a pair of expertly crafted raw denim jeans that will tell your story for years to come.
What is the difference between our denim fits?
We have four denim fits: Maverick Slim, Ford Standard, Cowboy, and Full-Saddle.
Maverick Slim is our slimmest fit with our lowest rise. It’s clean and narrow throughout, with a touch of stretch for life on the go.
Ford Standard is a classic tailored straight fit with a medium rise, more room in the thigh, and a straight fit through the calf. It’s the standard in every sense of the word.
Cowboy is a classic slim straight with a slightly higher rise inspired by old-school western wear.
Full-Saddle is our roomiest fit with our highest rise. Cut generously up top and straight through the leg.