The five-pocket jean was born in America, and we strongly felt we had to bring it back home to do it right. Crafted in LA from 13.5 oz loomstate Japanese selvedge, these jeans are a true-to-original reproduction of vintage shrink-to-fit denim with a few minor improvements. Designed to wear in like the originals, we’ve looked to denim expertise from the past 100 years to make some intentional tweaks to fit and construction and given them a quick rinse to take out the guesswork of sizing and shrinkage. The result is naturally textured denim that will serve as a personal blank canvas, imprinting a record of wear in every crease, whisker, and honeycomb. After a good amount of wear and tear, you’ll be left with a pair tailored specifically to your body and lifestyle. Something that can’t be purchased or reproduced.
Construction
Made in Los Angeles, every bartack, rivet, button, and chain stitch is set by hand by local experts. From the selvedge fabric we start with to the finishing touches, we’ve rebuilt and made intentional improvements to every detail that made our favorite midcentury shrink-to-fit references modern classics. The nickel button fly, copper rivets, and contrast gold and yellow tone stitching down to the internal selvedge line on the coin pocket and the more time-intensive one-piece waistband are all subtle yet essential references. Rather than overt branding, we believe the quality of a product should speak for itself.
Fabric
Woven at the renowned Kaihara mills in Japan, this 13.75 oz selvedge denim has a subtle natural texture that can only be achieved by the low-tension weaving of shuttle looms. While most denim today is processed for uniformity in texture and weave, we’ve opted to keep this loomstate denim closer in character to denim of the 1940s. We’ve rinsed it to account for shrinkage, but some growth, shrinkage, and, most importantly, fading are all expected outcomes of wear over time.
Fit
In three fits, our aim is to offer a premium jean for multiple body types and preferences. Ford Standard is the most democratic, designed with a mid-rise and straight fit through the leg. Full Saddle has a more accommodating high-rise and relaxed fit, and the new Cowboy fit has a medium-high rise with a slim-straight fit. Each pair is designed to develop a unique character with every wash and wear, conforming to your body and lifestyle over time.
Wear
As with all raw denim, indigo dye will run off and eventually fade over time. To preserve their condition and increase the depth and contrast of wear, we recommend cold-washing, inside-out, with mild detergent only as needed. With consistent wear, creases at high stress points will lose indigo dye, resulting in rich fades known affectionately as whiskers and honeycombs. For most, this is a desired outcome; a reflection of months and years of daily wear.
