Our second collaboration with Lee™ revisits one of the rarer chapters in their history: the 1960s Westerner set. Originally marketed as "Ranch Born, City Bred," the Westerner is a polished alternative to denim that could be worn on and off the range as well as on campus or on the job. After its brief run, the set slipped into obscurity — resurfacing only in a handful of films and finding a second life in collectors’ closets.
Approaching the archive directly, we aimed to reproduce these garments not only in form but also in the subtler qualities of tactility and proportion that defined their mid-century charm. The jacket, pant, and sawtooth shirt are cut from midweight Japanese cotton sateen — a fabric chosen for its balance of rugged durability and refinement, inviting touch and long-term patina.
The Westerner jacket is cropped and high-bodied, designed to sit above the waist in a way that recalls archival photographs without appearing overtly vintage. It’s cut with full sleeves, adjustable side tabs, and the signature zig-zag placket stitch. The pants are cut with a high rise and slim straight leg, finished with Lee’s iconic “Lazy S” stitching on spade-shaped back pockets, a Talon 42 zipper fly, and reproduction Lee™ tack buttons — all faithfully echoing the proportions and functional details of the originals. The sawtooth shirt is cut with a classic western sleeve placket and diamond snap buttons, complemented by meticulously sourced Japanese hardware and a silhouette that remains distinctly 1960s yet adaptable to contemporary wardrobes.
No detail was too small: the original flasher tag was reinterpreted, the back neck label custom-balanced, and every stitch — zig-zag, Lazy S, or otherwise — executed with archival precision. By bringing these silhouettes into the present, the latest Lee™ x Buck Mason collection offers an encounter with design history and a modern meditation on western style, embracing the paradox of garments that are both historic and immediate.