Our latest footwear collaboration brings us back to Northamptonshire, England — inside the Sanders factory, where bench-made shoes have been produced for more than a century. Together, we set out to reinterpret a piece of American military history through the lens of English shoemaking. 

During World War II, officer shoes were designed to project discipline and authority without excess — streamlined leather shoes built to withstand long days on base and formal duty alike. Unlike enlisted footwear, they favored cleaner lines and higher-grade materials, signaling rank through restraint rather than ornament.

Inspired by the low-quarter service shoes worn by U.S. Navy officers during World War II — The upper is cut from black calfskin and stitched with twin-needle construction at the quarter panels, a subtle reinforcement drawn from original military references. At the back seam, we opted for a traditional English “dog tail” detail in place of the more common U.S. Navy whale tail — a subtle nod to Sanders’ heritage.

Inside, a smooth calf lining and understated bracket-shaped heel-sock insert keep the interior clean and unmarked. Underfoot, a leather outsole is stained brown and stamped at the waist with the size, then finished with a replica neoprene heel secured by visible heel-seat nails. The entire shoe is Goodyear welted for durability, resolability, and a lifetime of wear.